All styles of adornment that fall outside the organized Western system of fashion change, an umbrella term/ oxymoron that describes a style of dress that is other such as afro punk, and alternative fashion.
– Ted Polhemus
The term “anti-fashion” itself is an oxymoron. In a world where fashion often dictates who belongs and who doesn’t, the concept of ‘anti-fashion’ emerges as a powerful act of defiance. It’s an oxymoron that challenges the very essence of what fashion stands for. While ‘fashion’ is commonly associated with following trends and fitting in, ‘anti-fashion’ boldly declares, ‘I wear what I want, not what society dictates.’ This rebellious spirit isn’t new; it has deep historical roots that can be traced back to the experiences of African Americans, who have long used attire as a form of resistance and self-expression. As we delve into the historical context of African ancestry and American enslavement, we’ll see how fashion—or the deliberate rejection of it—has been a poignant tool in the struggle for identity and freedom
The Historical Context: African Ancestry and American Enslavement
Black people have historically been “othered” in many societies, especially in the West. This othering was not just a matter of social status but was also visibly marked by the clothes they wore. During the 18th century, the clothing of enslaved people in America was chosen deliberately in juxtaposition to the fashion of the time. This distinction in attire was a clear marker, differentiating the enslaved from their masters. The textiles used for enslaved people’s clothing were often cheap, durable, and could withstand the rigors of hard labor. Cotton, a crop that many enslaved people were forced to cultivate, was a common material for their clothing. Flaxseed, another prevalent crop, was processed to produce linen, also used in making their garments.
Typical clothing items for enslaved men included coarse cotton shirts, trousers, and sometimes jackets, while enslaved women wore simple dresses or skirts with blouses. Both men and women often went barefoot or wore rudimentary shoes. The clothing was functional, with little to no ornamentation, and was a stark contrast to the elaborate and fashionable attire of their masters.
The Attire of Free Black People During Slavery
In contrast to the enslaved, free Black people had more agency in their choice of clothing, although they were still subject to societal norms and restrictions. Their attire often reflected a blend of African heritage and European influence, serving as a symbol of their unique identity within a racially stratified society.
Free Black men often wore suits, waistcoats, and hats similar to those of white men but sometimes incorporated fabrics or patterns that paid homage to their African roots. On the other hand, women wore dresses that were more modest than those of white women, often made of cotton or linen and adorned with simple patterns or embroidery.
However, it’s important to note that even free Black individuals faced “sumptuary laws” in some regions, which restricted the types of clothing they could wear as a means of maintaining social hierarchies. Despite these limitations, the attire of free Black people during this period was a form of resistance and self-expression, subtly challenging the norms imposed upon them.
The Zoot Suit Era: Fashion as Cultural Resistance
In the late 1930s and 1940s, the Zoot Suit emerged as a sartorial symbol of defiance and cultural pride. Characterized by its high-waisted, wide-legged trousers and long-tailored coats, the Zoot Suit was more than just a fashion trend; it was a political statement.
Worn predominantly by African Americans, Mexican Americans, and other minority groups, the Zoot Suit was a form of resistance against the racial and social injustices of the time. It defied the fabric rationing of World War II, making it controversial but also turning it into a symbol of rebellion against the status quo.
The Zoot Suit was not just about aesthetics; it was about asserting one’s identity in a society that sought to suppress it. The suit became a cultural icon, immortalized in jazz music, films, and even political movements. It laid the groundwork for future generations to use fashion as a form of protest and self-expression, setting the stage for the Civil Rights Movement and the rise of anti-fashion.
The Evolution of Anti-Fashion in African American Culture: From Civil Rights to Streetwear
For a community that has been systematically marginalized and “othered” throughout history, anti-fashion serves as a foundational element of African-American adornment and self-expression. This is particularly evident when we look back at pivotal moments like the Civil Rights era. During this period, fashion became more than just a matter of personal style; it evolved into a strategic tool for social and political change.
The Civil Rights Era: Dressing for Respect and Equality
In the 1960s, as the Civil Rights Movement gained momentum, the choice of attire for African-American men and women became a calculated decision. Demonstrators often adopted Westernized fashion—suits for men and conservative dresses for women—to present a polished and respectable image to the world. This was not merely a sartorial choice but a tactical maneuver aimed at counteracting pervasive negative stereotypes. By aligning their appearance with mainstream, respectable fashion, activists sought to demonstrate that Black individuals were not only deserving of civil rights but also of the same respect and dignity afforded to their white counterparts.
The Black Panther Party: Fashion as Revolutionary Symbolism
In stark contrast to the broader Civil Rights Movement, the Black Panther Party (BPP) harnessed fashion as a potent symbol of defiance, unity, and revolution. The Party’s uniform—comprising a black beret, black leather jacket, and dark sunglasses—transcended mere aesthetics. It was a visual manifesto, a declaration of the Party’s intent and ideology. This iconic attire symbolized strength, unity, and unyielding resistance against a system that had perpetuated the oppression of Black communities for centuries. By adopting such a distinct and cohesive style, the BPP made an unequivocal statement about their identity and their unwavering commitment to justice.
The ’70s and ’80s: The Rise of Streetwear and Athleisure
As the Civil Rights Movement gave way to the flamboyance of the 1970s and 1980s, fashion took another transformative turn. While mainstream designers were enamored with larger shoulder pads, vibrant colors, and dramatic silhouettes, a new wave of African-American designers like Willi Smith and Isaia Rankin were making their own mark. Eschewing the “go big or go home” aesthetic that dominated the era, they championed a more minimalist approach. Their designs featured separates that could be mixed and matched, dressed up or down, offering a versatile and practical alternative. This innovative approach laid the groundwork for the streetwear and athleisure trends that would define the late 20th and early 21st centuries, setting the stage for the hip-hop fashion phenomenon.
The Hip-Hop Revolution: A Sartorial Symphony of Street Culture
As the horizon of American music expanded to include hip-hop, a genre that magnified the stories of Black life through its poetic 16-bar format, it brought with it a seismic shift in fashion—one that continues to reverberate in the industry today.
The Genesis of Hip-Hop Fashion: Glam Meets Street
In the nascent days of hip-hop, pioneers like the Sugar Hill Gang and Kurtis Blow burst onto the scene, not just with their groundbreaking music but also with their flamboyant fashion choices. Their style was an eclectic mix of new romantic and glam rock aesthetics, featuring metallic fabrics, jerry curls, and elaborate headdresses. This was hip-hop’s first foray into fashion, a trendy blend of street culture and theatricality that would set the stage for the genre’s evolving sartorial narrative.
The Streetwear Revolution: Authenticity Takes Center Stage
As hip-hop matured, artists like LL Cool J, Rakim, and Run DMC began to steer the genre’s fashion towards a more authentic representation of everyday life in Black communities. Gone were the glam-rock influences, replaced by attire that mirrored the styles of influential figures in their neighborhoods. Whether it was jeans paired with sweatshirts and gold chains or custom outfits crafted by Harlem’s legendary Dapper Dan, these artists showcased a style that was both relatable and aspirational.
The Counter-Narrative: Challenging High Fashion Norms
What made this evolution even more compelling was its stark contrast to the high-fashion runways of brands like Armani and Chanel. While these luxury houses were presenting collections steeped in exclusivity and traditional elegance, hip-hop fashion was busy crafting a counter-narrative. It was a narrative that celebrated the grit, resilience, and creativity of street culture, effectively challenging the fashion industry’s narrow definitions of style and elegance.
One of the most empowering aspects of anti-fashion is the freedom of choice. It’s about wearing what feels right for the individual, not what’s dictated by fashion magazines or influencers. This choice can be a powerful form of self-expression, allowing individuals to showcase their unique personalities, beliefs, and values through their clothing.
The Zeitgeist of Anti-Fashion: A Mirror to Our Changing World
As we navigate through unprecedented times marked by global pandemics, economic upheavals, and social unrest, the shift towards anti-fashion becomes more than just a trend; it becomes a reflection of broader societal changes. This evolution serves as a poignant reminder that fashion, like all forms of art, is not an isolated entity but is deeply influenced by the world it inhabits.
The Pandemic’s Influence: A Reevaluation of Priorities
The COVID-19 pandemic has not only altered our daily lives but has also prompted a reevaluation of what truly matters. In a world where health and safety have taken center stage, the extravagance of high fashion seems increasingly out of touch. Anti-fashion, with its emphasis on individuality and sustainability, resonates with a global audience now more focused on substance over style.
Economic Downturn: The Rise of Sustainable and Ethical Choices
As economic challenges loom large, the allure of fast fashion and disposable culture wanes. People are increasingly seeking value, longevity, and ethical production in their clothing choices. Anti-fashion, often characterized by handmade, upcycled, or sustainably produced items, aligns well with these shifting consumer priorities.
As we’ve journeyed through the rich tapestry of anti-fashion, from its roots in African American history to its modern-day manifestations, one thing becomes abundantly clear: anti-fashion is not merely a style or a trend. It’s a cultural milestone, a form of resistance, and a powerful medium for self-expression.
