Monday, December 23, 2024
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    Pyer Moss- Collection l


    Full Show


    Review


    Close up to leather patchwork jacket in Look 6 worn by Shan Fernandez Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv

    The show opens with the “Pyer Moss Tabernacle Drip Choir Drenched in the Blood” in white straight-leg jeans with knee-length light creases down the middle with matching white long-sleeve turtle neck shirts, belting the sweet melody “Home is Where the Hatred Is’ by Gil Scott-Heron. The show opens with a brilliant white collared shirt dress with shoulder-to-hem pleating in the front.

    If you’ve never had the pleasure of feasting your eyes on a Pyer Moss collection, be glad this collection is your first encounter because full meals were served. The warm color palette gives a normally subdued fall color scheme some flavor. At the same time, the impeccably tailored cowboy jackets and western t-shirts show off the imagination and skill set of designer Kerby Jean Raymond. This season’s celebration was focused on 19th-century Black cowboys, exposing their plight and creating a narrative for their history while supporting the beloved Yee-Haw agenda. Kerby always knows how to infuse incredibly thoughtful, historical, and political references with fashion-forward pieces that make you do a double-take at the garments’ precision and futurism. The entire collection gave contemporary cowboy vibes whilst giving us a sneak peek at some of the new heat from the Pyer Moss X Reebok collaboration whose bright color palette immediately transported me to the early 1990’s nostalgic streetwear days. Especially with the signature, wide collar, overstitched seamless cowboy shirt with the iconic Cross Colours label on the bottom left side of the shirt just above the hem served in look 29 on Estefania. This splash of old-school streetwear is exactly the break your eye needed before the renewal of the tailored line of cowboy apparel. Needless to say, Kerby and his design directors Joy Douglas and Jonathan Millner have done it again. The edgy, sophisticated streetwear couture glam look is emulated throughout this collection, making it cohesive, interesting, and Well done!

    Details We Love

    This tailored unisex suit oozes the type of creative genius we covet at NM. The contrast stitching almost suggests that pattern pieces from another garment were stitched together in an artful way to give a new take on the traditional European tuxedo silhouette suit. While keeping the cowboy theme core in mind with the light bagginess of the matching pant. The fabric looks like Japanese denim in this brilliant Havana light-wash denim color. The suit gives modern luxury an entirely different look, casual chic meets street. It’s one of the things we loved to see! This look could be seen as a theme throughout the collection with its companion red suit in look two work by Abdulaye Niang. 

    It was the way the pants moved during this show for us. The hip-hugging silhouette flowed as the model walked like silk trousers on a summer day, but upon closer observation of this fourth look worn by model Jordan Legessa, the pant fabric was actually denim. I’m not exactly sure how you can make such a traditionally stiff and unmovable fabric dance like fine linen sheets on a clothing line in the spring, but Pyer Moss’s design team has made it possible. We love that it’s an easily styled nonbinary look that can be worn on anyone as I can see it complimenting many different hip shapes. The white overstitching and cowboy chap opening at the waistline is what finished the NM staff with this look.


    I’m promised for this world just so long, and when I go that will be the end of it…. Sometime, I suppose, I’ll make a mistake, a fatal mistake. and it will be all over.

    Bill Pickett (famous cowboy), Reply when asked if he was afraid of getting killed, Arizona Republican [1905]

    Inspiration

    An African American cowboy sits saddled on his horse in Pocatello. At the crossing of the Oregon Short Line and the Utah and Northern railroads, Pocatello attracted non-Mormon workers, including Idaho’s first African Americans. Pocatello, Idaho, USA. | Location: Pocatello, Idaho, USA. (Photo by Library of Congress/Corbis/VCG via Getty Images)

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