Review

Close up to look 1 **Photo:** Daniele Oberrauch/ Gorunway.com

The Spring 2024 collection by Who Decides War, unveiled during New York Fashion Week, presented a rich tapestry of narratives and sartorial craftsmanship, weaving a story that is deeply personal yet universally resonant. The designers, Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore, orchestrated a symphony of textures, patterns, and silhouettes that spoke to a harmonious blend of past reflections and future aspirations. The collection, which paid a heartfelt tribute to Bravado’s father’s tailor shop, Alteration Consultants, was a testament to the intricate art of tailoring, showcasing a meticulous attention to detail and a profound understanding of fabric manipulation.

The designers introduced a plethora of materials and designs, with a notable emphasis on reimagined denim, presenting it as a luxurious and collectible item. Slashed jeans adorned with all-over grommets and a lace-patched strapped skirt were among the pieces that demonstrated the brand’s innovative approach to this timeless fabric. The tailoring, a standout element of the collection, was presented in various forms, including navy wool suits with white top stitching and pants with jackets ingeniously built into their construction. The use of padlocks in place of traditional cufflinks or buttons and the incorporation of tactile pellet inserts into a matte metallic suit were just a few examples of the innovative techniques employed by the designers.

The collection also introduced a softer and more draped aesthetic, albeit with the embroidered patches providing a somewhat structured stiffness. The tailoring, which was partly a collaborative effort with Bravado’s father, was characterized by a deconstructed approach, offering a fresh and contemporary take on classic silhouettes. The designers also expanded their women’s wear offering, closely mirroring the menswear and further solidifying their ability to traverse the gender spectrum in fashion. The collection, while deeply rooted in personal narratives and experiences, transcended the personal to touch on themes of transformation, innovation, and the perpetual evolution of style, solidifying Who Decides War’s position as a brand that is not only a fashion house but a storyteller of deeply resonant narratives.

Details We Love

This particular ensemble captivates with its masterful dichotomy: a grommet-embellished lace-up bustier harmoniously paired with a long, flowing snow-white bouffant, meticulously embroidered with the brand’s signature stained glass motif. This striking juxtaposition, blending the bustier’s bold and rebellious spirit with the ethereal elegance of the bouffant, encapsulates a narrative of both structured edginess and timeless grace. The meticulous attention to detail, from the precise placement of each grommet and lace-up detail to the intricate embroidery of the stained glass motif, speaks volumes of the craftsmanship and sartorial excellence synonymous with the brand. This ensemble, while visually stunning, also weaves a story of contrast and balance, embodying a woman who radiates both strength and softness, commanding attention with her boldness while captivating with her grace.

The creation of a full denim suit that possesses the look and movement of wool suiting fabric, especially while incorporating ripped and sheared detailing, is a testament to the immense talent and skill exhibited in Who Decides War’s Spring 2024 collection. This ensemble, which at first glance appears to be a simple men’s suit, undergoes a transformative journey under the designers’ visionary hands, emerging as a one-of-a-kind piece that captivates and commands attention. The meticulous craftsmanship involved in ensuring the denim not only mimics the drape and elegance of wool but also maintains its structural integrity despite the deliberate distressing, speaks to a profound understanding of fabric manipulation and design innovation. This piece, while rooted in the classic silhouette of a men’s suit, transcends traditional design norms, emerging as a sartorial embodiment of innovative design, meticulous craftsmanship, and a fearless departure from the conventional, thereby encapsulating the designers’ prowess and visionary aesthetic.